Dear Ken: I’m in the market for a carbon monoxide detector. One is a plug-in, and the other is a wall-mount battery style. Which do you like? — Chuck

Answer: I prefer the one that plugs into a wall outlet. Outlets are usually about 13 inches off the floor, which, if you think about it, is approximately at the same level your head is when you’re asleep (the time of day when you’re most vulnerable to this deadly gas). Carbon monoxide (CO) is a little lighter than air, so if your furnace were to fail, it would find its way up to the bedroom level. A good location for your detector is the central hallway in the house, or if you have no kids at home, in the master bedroom. Of course, the manufacturer’s instructions supersede these recommendations.

Speaking of manufacturers, I like the Nighthawk plug-in carbon monoxide detector. It has a digital readout plus a historical data base that the fire department really likes. Incidentally, CO detectors have a limited life span, so the recommendation is to replace them every seven years. In fact most brands have a built-in countdown computer that will let you know — via a series of beeps — when that time has elapsed.

While we’re on the subject, you need to replace older smoke detectors too, because they get full of dust, cobwebs and other pollution over the years. The recommended life span here is a little longer — every 10 years. When you do replace it, consider the newer dual-type detectors. They combine the traditional and more common ionization technology with a photocell to detect smoldering, smoky fires.

Finally, I’m not a big fan of the combination smoke and CO detectors, since smoke accumulates high, near the ceiling, but we want early warning of CO near the floor, as I described above.

Around the House: Turn to attic fan to cool off overly hot attic

Dear Ken: I spilled some splotches of latex paint on my carpet. How can I get them off now? — Jackie

Answer: Of course, it would have been best to hop right on it. Acrylic latex paint can be pretty tough to remove after it has set.

First, let’s talk about what might have been. One of the essentials in any workshop is a supply of white terry cloth shop towels, which you can buy in a bag at the hardware store Use cold water to immediately blot up spilled paint, followed by a second course of warmer water plus a little detergent — but always blot, never rub!

However, after the paint has dried, it becomes quite brittle, so there’s a chance you can remove it mechanically by scrubbing with a wire brush, or perhaps “shaving” the spots with scissors or a razor blade.

Chemically, Goof Off or hydrogen peroxide can work, but only as a last resort, and only after you’ve tested their chemical action in a closet.

Around the House: Turn to attic fan to cool off overly hot attic

Dear Ken: There is a consistent wet spot draining out from one corner of the shower base where it meets the tile. Where do you think it’s coming from? — Chris

Answer: It’s a pretty long list. The most likely culprit is a leak from behind one of the faucets or from the shower head itself. Trouble is, you’ll have to remove tile and drywall to both inspect it and fix it.

You can eliminate some possibilities by noting the following: Does it appear with both hot and cold water use? Is it from showers only, but not when you take a bath? If so, unscrew the shower head and reinstall it with new Teflon tape. Have you caulked and regrouted the tile lately? Does it go away when you don’t use the shower for a few days? If so, it’s the drain. Remove the screen and seal it with a generous dollop of silicone.

You should get right on this, though, because mold and rotten wood inside the walls are pretty daunting to fix.

Around the House: How to remedy a stinky garbage disposal

Dear Ken: My water heater makes these strange noises, like sputtering, popping and fizzing. Is it something to worry about? — Gail

Answer: Not usually. Older water heaters accumulate little spots of minerals over the years. They stick to the sides of the tank as well as the interior flue pipe like miniature barnacles. That, in turn, creates tiny boiling points that release air bubbles from their surfaces to create those noises that concern you.

It’s usually not a problem, but it can indicate that the water system is heavily mineralized. So drain the tank every year or so to flush out sediment. Remember, the trick is to blast jets of cold water on and off into the tank once it’s empty. That will, in turn, send the crud out the hose and down the drain.

Finally, make sure you have a pressure release valve on the side of the tank and that it operates without sticking when you test it.

Around the House: Solving one stinky situation in the bathroom

Dear Ken: I have silverfish bugs once in a while in the tub. How do I discourage them? — Ralph

Answer: These pesky insects like moist places. They aren’t particularly harmful, just disgusting. Make sure the tile grout and caulking in and around the tub and shower enclosure are well-sealed. Fix any leaking pipes and make sure you use the bathroom fan while bathing or showering. Also, frequent vacuuming is important, especially in the crevices under the baseboards.

These critters thrive on starchy residues of all kinds — wallpaper paste, fabrics and even the glue used in book bindings! So, you can make a natural, nonpoisonous trap by smearing honey on pieces of cardboard.

Finally, here’s a web site that might be helpful: healthline.com/health/how-to-get-rid-of-silverfish