Zinfandel has long been my favorite red wine. There are many reasons for this. It is versatile with food: as good with red meat as cabernet; even better with spicy foods; and really shines with barbecue and grilled foods, especially sausages.

Zinfandel captures the essence of exuberance in a glass. Though it can be made in various styles, it typically exhibits bold, brash raspberry, blackberry and cherry fruit accented with spices (often black pepper, sage, baking spices) and a little wild character. Even better, it is one of the best values in wine. Quality can rival the finest wines in the world, but most of even the best bottles are around $50.

Note many labels list “old vine,” which (though not regulated) generally means at least an average 50 years of age. Most such vines are dry farmed and head pruned. Also, many bottlings include small amounts of grapes like petite sirah, carignan and alicante bouschet, usually adding structure and complexity. Some are what are called a “field blend,” with many varieties planted intermixed in the vineyard. The following, listed in order of preference, provide a good introduction:

• 2019 Hartford Old Vine Russian River Valley ($40), vines averaging 100+ years; bursting with fruit, powerful yet elegant, seamless, brisk, rich, toasted oak, pepper.

• 2017 Seghesio Old Vine Sonoma County ($40), from Alexander and Dry Creek valleys; dense, briary, smoky, black pepper stimulating, powdery tannins.

• 2017 Rock Wall Alegria Vineyard Russian River Valley ($45), field blend co-planted in 1890 with nearly two dozen varieties; powerful, concentrated, structured, anise, chocolate and black pepper notes.

• 2018 Dutcher Crossing Maple Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($50), historic vineyard; ripe, good depth, well-defined, energetic fruit hinting at burgeoning richness.

• 2019 Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Dry Creek Valley ($38), vines averaging 100+ years; firm, luscious, concentrated, briary, suggestions of sweetness and peppery spice.

Finally, four fine values:

• 2018 Seghesio Sonoma County ($26). selection of vineyards; abundant, juicy, cherry, blackberry, lightly peppery, sleek.

• 2019 Girard Old Vine Napa Valley ($28), sourced from select vineyards; ripe, lively red berries, toasty spice notes, polished palate.

• 2019 Mettler Epicenter ($25), 50-year-old vineyard in the Mokelumne River sub-appellation, the epicenter of Lodi’s old vine district; red and dark berries, smoky, spicy herbal, solid frame.

• 2019 Cosentino THE Zin ($22), from Cosentino’s “THE” line of Lodi wines; dark red fruit, boysenberry, baking spice, velvety mouthfeel.

If these wines whet your appetite for more zin, check out the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (I believe the first organization dedicated to a single grape) to learn more, and the California Wine Trail as a guide to finding the best zinfandel vineyards and over 200 producers.