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Wine Guy: Flavorful red and white wines from the Iberian Peninsula

Spain and Portugal share a remarkable landscape, the Iberian Peninsula, home to some of the most interesting wine grapes and fascinating wines.

Arguably the most famous region in Spain is Rioja. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape.

The variety typically exhibits cherry, black and red berries, and savory notes of tobacco and spice. Prices range from every day to collectible, but Rioja is a good value in all categories.

Bodegas Montecillo, celebrating 150 years of operation, produces wines more “traditional” in style — notable for long aging to develop more mature tastes — while maintaining freshness and fruit with modern winemaking. Try the 2017 Crianza ($12) for its vibrant, easygoing nature; the 2013 Reserva ($18) for smoky, dense fruit and silky texture.

Ramón Bilbao, established in 1924, produces a more modern, bold style largely due to maturing in smaller oak barrels. Its 2017 Crianza ($19) is fresh with hints of oak and dusty tannins. The 2015 Reserva ($27) shows vanilla notes, solid fruit and good acidity.

The 2016 Limited Edition ($27) is the “second wine” to Bilbao’s old vine signature wine; fruit forward, toasty, earthy, with spicy oak.

Portugal’s Douro Valley is renowned for its dramatically sloping hillsides, terraced vineyards and Port wines. This fortified red dessert wine comes in several styles but typically is high alcohol, bursting with red and black fruit, richness and natural sweetness, finishing with a warming kick.

One of my favorite styles is tawny port. These nonvintage wines spend extensive time in casks, (average of 10 to 40 years) mellowing while also intensifying.

Known more for pure fruit and finesse than power, expect balance, elegance and a distinctive almond character.

Dow’s Port, dating to 1798, produces tawny ports slightly less sweet than most, although they retain classic richness and even better balance. Its 10-Year-Old Tawny ($39) is a fine introduction, lively with caramel and a touch of cinnamon. The 20-Year-Old Tawny ($67) is more concentrated, with butterscotch and woody traces.

Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde is about as opposite to port as you can get, notable for light, refreshing, low-alcohol white wines that are fresh, fruity, and brisk (even spritzy).

All the wines below are from 2020.

• Quinta da Raza Alvarinho ($15), generous grapefruit and pear.

Soalheiro Alvarinho ($22), concentrated but elegant orange and stone fruits.

Casa de Vila Verde Tiroliro Branco ($12), luscious pear and lemon with mineral.

Encostas do Lima Medium Dry ($13), pineapple, mango and papaya, pleasantly sweet.

Adega Ponte da Barca Premium ($9), juicy lemon and mineral.

Portal da Calcada Reserva ($14,) slight spritzy, vivid fruit, floral notes.

Rich Mauro.
Rich Mauro.


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