Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles partly explains this.

There was a period of winemaking excess, characterized by harvesting overripe grapes, overuse of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees — practices that enhance richness and complexity. But too much overwhelms the fresh natural fruit of the grape. The result was the stereotype of the big, buttery, oaky, high-alcohol chardonnay.

Wine Guy: A cornucopia of inviting, reasonably affordable pinot noir

More recently, winemakers are seeking better balance. More judicious use of these practices produces wines of lush texture but vibrant structure accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice and nuts. The fruit is prominent and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, stone fruit or tropical fruit.

The following wines (in order of personal preference) succeed in achieving that balance:

• 2020 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard ($65): ripe, succulent, stone, toast, nutty, savory.

• 2019 Argyle Nuthouse ($45): vibrant, juicy, tangy, butterscotch, toasty, nutty.

• 2019 Ram’s Gate Hyde Vineyard ($70): fresh, focused, luxurious, stony, spicy.

• 2019 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($52): coconut, brioche, stone, spice.

• 2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection ($35): juicy, rich, integrated, textural.

• 2020 Jordan Russian River Valley ($40): luscious, caramel, toast, baking spice.

• 2019 Cuvaison ATS ($60): full, rich, brioche, honeysuckle, vanilla.

• 2019 Migration Sonoma Coast ($42): broad, lush, juicy, spice.

• 2019 Calera Mount Harlan ($55) savory, butter, brioche, honeysuckle.

• 2020 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands ($50): mouthwatering, toasty, structured, creamy.

• 2018 Medlock Ames Lower Slope ($48): juicy, honeyed, nutty, silky.

• 2019 Cuvaison Kite Tail ($50): zesty, ginger, concentrated, satiny, oaky, toasty.

• 2019 Lucienne Lone Oak ($40): fresh, stone, hazelnut.

• 2019 Dry Creek Vineyard DCV Block 10 ($34) tangy, stony, oaky, baking spice.

• 2019 The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills ($45): vibrant, toasty, ginger, graceful, steely.

Discover high-quality pinot noir from California and Oregon

The following wines veer even more to less oak, more neutral oak and stainless steel, little or no malolactic. They emphasize a fresher, livelier, fruitier, more ebullient style.

• 2019 Anaba Sonoma Coast ($40): lip-smacking, steely, light oak.

• 2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($76)” ripe, rich, elegant, baking spice.

• 2019 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($46): crisp, rich, buttery.

• 2020 FEL Anderson Valley ($34): zesty, stony, spice

• 2020 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($40): racy, intense, savory.

• 2019 Bouchaine Carneros ($36): juicy, spicy herb, anise.

Finally, the following wines are very good values for every day:

• 2019 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($26): rich, oaky, caramel.

• 2020 Calera Central Coat ($26): firm, intense, delicate.

• 2020 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($26): juicy, biscuit, butterscotch.

• 2019 Balletto Teresa’s Unoaked ($20): zesty, searing, steely.

• 2019 Hahn SLH ($25) snappy, stony, earthy.

• 2020 Raeburn Russian River Valley ($20): structured, light chalk, sweet-tart.

• 2020 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25): tangy, vanilla, mildly spicy.

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