When a restaurant isn’t just a place to eat, concern for substandard food and service is legit. Surprisingly, even though there’s significantly more than chow and libations at Denver’s Punch Bowl Social, there’s not much to worry about.

Described on its website as “industrial chic,” it’s a large, noisy and busy establishment catering to a young clientele. I saw no families and few people with gray tresses or receding hairlines. Given the crowd, I understood why I wasn’t asked to show my ID for my mixed drink. Nonetheless, our meals were fine even if conversation was difficult due to the constant clamor of a packed house.

In addition to food service, Punch Bowl Social features what can only be described as a fun zone: bowling, pool tables, shuffleboard and an array of arcade games. However, I went for the food.

Appetizers include the usual assortment of nachos, wings and dips. We were intrigued by the large bowls of french fries, identified on the menu as “Dirty Fries.” Three kinds are offered, and they change frequently. Our herb and Parmesan fries ($9) were hand-cut and dusted primarily with rosemary and cheese. The thin, crispy spuds quickly disappeared.

The Sriracha peanut fries ($10) are always on the menu. Only the peanut allergy of one of my dining companions eliminated sampling the fries, coated with hoisin, Sriracha and aioli and served with cilantro, pickled chiles and crushed peanuts.

Chicken and waffles ($18) is hard to resist, especially when the server notes it’s a house specialty. Two golden, crispy chicken breasts rest on a malt-flavored, blond waffle. The addition of sliced strawberries provided color, but was more suggestive of brunch than dinner.

The advertised chipotle flavor in the maple syrup was undetectable. Nonetheless, the sweet and savory combination of waffle and chicken was just as it should be: complementary, not competitive.

If chicken and waffles is not your thing, consider the Alabama chicken sandwich ($15). Served with french fries, the bun could barely contain the multiple pieces of fried chicken, lettuce, pickles and tomato. There’s also a side of white barbecue sauce for dipping. While the chicken looked similar to that accompanying the waffle, it was dry, needing the tangy sauce.

The menu is a mix of sandwiches, salads, tacos and main courses such as steak frites ($24) and salmon ($21). Several dishes highlight Mexican and Southern cuisine. For example, the Carolina pulled pork sandwich ($14). Rather than traditional barbecue sauce, the tender shredded pork is doused with Carolina Gold, a tangier pale sauce. The meat is piled high on a brioche bun and served with house-made kettle chips. Lettuce slaw helped mitigate the strong flavor. I prefer traditional Midwest sauces.

Three carnitas tacos ($14) are filled with cocoa-dusted pork topped with too many pickled onions, radishes, an inconsistent amount of cojita cheese and cilantro. Even with the accoutrements, these were bland. The black beans, however, were rich with tomato, oregano and garlic flavors.

Despite the noisy crowd and the available games, Punch Bowl Social really is foremost a restaurant. The food was fine, but this isn’t on my list for repeat visits.

Punch Bowl Social

Description: Made-from scratch bar food

Location: 65 Broadway, Denver

Contact: 1-303-765-2695; punchbowlsocial.com

Prices: $10 to $24 (entrees); $10 to $35 (appetizers)

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Friday; 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturday; 10 a.m.-midnight Sunday.

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating.

Favorite dishes: Chicken and waffle; pulled pork sandwich.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.