Milagros Cocina Mexicana, literally and figuratively, works miracles in the kitchen.

It’s a surprise given its location in the Shops at Falcon Landing on North Academy Boulevard among storefronts and numerous fast casual dining establishments. But Milagros stands out: It’s upscale and understated. Don’t expect to find serapes and piñatas here. Nor will the tacos be blanketed with shredded lettuce and cheese. Instead, expect creative spins on south-of-the-border classics that better reflect the country of Mexico than what’s often found in the U.S.

Although executive chef Roberto Reyes is from Michoacán, the menu reflects several regions in Mexico. If neither time, budget nor waistlines are concerns, this is the place to learn about different Mexican cuisines.

While reviewing the menu, our server, Lucretia, offered numerous suggestions. We followed several of her recommendations and were not disappointed, starting with the flautas ($9.29). We opted for the rolled corn tortillas generously filled with shredded beef (chicken is also available). Each order includes three drizzled with avocado crema and topped with pickled red onions, slaw and micro cilantro.

They’re crunchy and the tender meat is subtly seasoned. These could be a meal on their own, but we didn’t stop here. Among Lucretia’s advice were the chile relleno ($17.29) and Tikin Xic ($20.99). The latter literally means “dry fish” in Yucatec Mayan (an Indigenous Mexican language) and is more typical of the country’s Yucatan region. However, here it is anything but dry.

Chef Reyes puts his own spin using black cod marinated with achiote, a peppery spice similar to paprika. It’s wrapped in banana leaves, then roasted and served with pickled red onions, pickled cucumbers (there’s a lot of pickling happening here), roasted lime and half an avocado thinly sliced served on a bed of arroz poblano: rice made with poblano chile, cilantro and garlic.

The fish is flakey, moist and savory. The additional elements on the plate provide vivid colors, flavors and textures. Simply put, the dish is as visually appealing as it is enjoyable to consume.

The chilierelleno features three cheeses stuffed in cornmeal-coated green chile, then fried. It’s hidden beneath an abundant amount of house-made guajillo chile sauce topped with those ubiquitous pickled red onions and micro cilantro.

Although there’s plenty of the smoky sauce, it hides neither the relleno’s crunchiness nor the creamy melted cheese filling. It’s served on a bed of Mexican rice.

Portions are plentiful, but we saved room for dessert if only because we overheard others nearby — and our server — rave about the crème brulee de mamey ($9).

Milagros Cocina’s nontraditional rendition fully satisfies the sweet tooth without being overly saccharine. Rather than egg-based custard, mamey (a tropical fruit) pulp is the base layer. Candied lavender and Mexican chocolate are incorporated into the caramelized sugar coating topped with fresh strawberries.

After each course, we had trouble containing our appreciation of the varied flavors, so Lucretia offered to let the kitchen know. Despite being busy, Chef Reyes stopped by our table to answer a few questions and thank us for enjoying our meal.

Milagros Cocina Mexicana

Upscale Mexican cuisine

Location: 7455 N. Academy Blvd.

Contact: 1-719-598-1030; milagroscocinamx.com

Prices: $14.29 to $33

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining.

Favorite dishes: Tikin Xic and flautas.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.