It’s probably easier to get a reservation at a Michelin star-rated restaurant than to Casa Bonita; there are also fewer, if any, security barriers to go through just to get in the door. 

It took six months to receive the link to pick a date and time to dine at Denver’s restored, iconic Mexican-theme restaurant. Was it worth the wait? No!

A few days before our scheduled dining time, an email arrived with rules: arrive on time with the reservation QR code; no weapons; everyone in the party must be present. Be prepared for security staff at the entry manning metal detectors and purse/bag checks before entry is granted.

Even before its renovation, Casa Bonita was not the place to go for good food; you went for the experience. This hasn’t changed.

The food is better, but that doesn’t necessarily say much. For $39.99 per person, I expect cooked-to-order meals. Instead, entree choices are made at a window, then on to a line where workers push plates, cafeteria style, down the row to be filled with the chosen main course, slaw and ice cream scoop mounds of rice and beans.

We ordered chicken mole and beef saudero. One employee told us these and the carnitas tacos are the most popular of the eight available main dishes.

Saudero is braised brisket in green chili. Some of the meat was fork tender and some wasn’t. The sauce had more of a citrus flavor than chili. This was tastier than the mole.

A small graphic of a flame indicated which dishes were spicy; this included the mole. Instead, it was bland. Despite the two pieces of chicken practically swimming in the thin, dark sauce, the meat was dry.

Soft drinks, including refills, chips and salsa, two sopapillas per person and service are included in the base fee. Alcoholic beverages are an additional charge.

The sopapillas, a holdover from the restaurant’s original menu, were the best part of the meal. However, they are no longer all you can eat. Puffy, golden brown and drizzled with honey, these were airy, not oily. I appreciated the small packaged wipe with which I could clean my hands. These were a sticky mess, but worth every bite.

Other entrees include ceviche, taco salad, chile rellenos and enchiladas with house-made tortillas — you can see the women making them when in line.

What’s important to keep in mind is that even though Casa Bonita isn’t billed as dinner theater, that’s what it is. The decor is reminiscent of a tropical Mexican village. It’s dark with lots of faux palm trees, cobblestone pathways, caves and a pool from which cliff divers somersault into with breathtaking precision.

The diving happens every 20 minutes and was a highlight of the evening. Other entertainment includes a puppet show and performances by an illusionist. The Casa Bonita gorilla is still running amok. Do take time in the small museum of Casa Bonita’s history. Among other things, you’ll learn meals were originally $6.95.

And there’s a swag shop near the exit to take home a souvenir, just in case the experience isn’t memorable enough.

Casa Bonita

Immersive Mexican dining experience

Location: 6715 W. Colfax Ave., Lakewood

Contact: 1-303-232-5115; casabonitaDenver.com

Dinner prices: $39.99 for adults; $24.99 for kids 3-12

Lunch prices: $29.99 for adults; $19.99 for kids 3-12

Hours: 4:30-10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 11 a.m.- 10:30 p.m. Saturday; lunch hours 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Friday; closed Monday and Sunday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi.

Favorite dishes: Sopapillas.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.