Hong Kong Station is a must-go destination for Chinese cuisine that goes far beyond egg rolls and chop suey.

Those are available at this Centennial restaurant, but they’re easy to overlook based on the extensive offerings representing several Chinese regions. For example, neither spaghetti, pork chops nor French toast are what many consider typical Asian foods. Yet, they’re on the menu along with Szechuan fare, curries and such standards such as Kung pao chicken and beef lo mein.

This is a busy place, perhaps much like the metro station from which it gets its name. Admittedly, I was a little uncomfortable waiting for it to open at 4 p.m.; I didn’t want to be the first one in the door lest we appear too eager or desperate. I needn’t have worried. Others walked in before us and the flow of incoming diners never abated. Apparently, there can be quite a wait later — something the regulars knew.

We started with pan-fried dumplings ($6.95)CQ, which arrived quickly. Eight in each order included two soy sauce-based with dipping sauces, which were indistinguishable from one another.

That didn’t matter; the crispy pockets filled with ground pork seasoned with ginger bode well for the entrees to come.

After much debate and acknowledging we were ordering a lot of food, we decided on beef brisket with pan-fried noodle ($16.95)CQ, stir-fried beef spaghetti with black pepper ($15.95)CQ and sweet and sour pork Hong Kong style ($16.95) because we wanted to check in with something familiar. However, our server wasn’t able to offer an explanation as to what constituted Hong Kong style vs Cantonese.

Bite-size cubes of brisket with carrot slices and bok choy covered pan-fried noodles, which were deceivingly brittle. The meat was so tender it melted in the mouth while the veggies were al dente, but it was those noodles that brought the different elements together.

Although there was no description of how the beef was prepared, given its delicate quality it must have simmered for hours in a simple broth that could have used a little more pizazz so the flavor was on par as the texture component of the dish.

We laughed about ordering spaghetti in a Chinese restaurant, but later patted ourselves on the backs (and bellies) for making such a wise choice.

Large flecks of black pepper dotted the long noodle mixed with pieces of thinly sliced steak, carrots, green onions and bell peppers. I didn’t know what to expect of spaghetti here, but this was an exceptional dish. It was colorful and spicy thanks to the black pepper, which provided the spot-on amount of piquancy.

Our sweet and sour entree featured chunks of glossy orange pork with minimal pieces of pineapple, green pepper and onion. The focus was on the meat, which was tender and not heavily breaded. It came with a choice of steamed or fried rice.

Servings are large and service is attentive with food quickly coming out of the kitchen. Meals are finished with complimentary Chinese doughnuts. No fortune cookies here, but a meal at Hong Kong Station is lucky enough.

Hong Kong Station Chinese cuisine for dining in or carryout. Location: 6878 S. Yosemite, Centennial Contact: 720-592-0861; hkstationdenver.com Prices: $6.95-—$21.95 (dinner); $11.50—$12.50 lunch specials Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 8 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday. Details: Credit cards accepted. Wi-Fi. Favorite dishes: Stir-fried beef spaghetti with black pepper and beef brisket pan-fried noodle. Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.