Alma Fonda Fina owner, Chef Johnny Curiel, has expanded his Mexican food and culture brand to the streets of Boulder with the brick-and-mortar restaurant Cozobi Fonda Fina.

Cozobi Fonda Fina is named after Cozobi — the Zapotec god of corn — and is rooted in Mexico’s centuries-old corn nixtamalization traditions and wood-fire cooking techniques, which defines its rich food history, the restaurant said in a news release Monday.

“It’s incredible to be back in Boulder. After my transformative time working at Centro Mexican Kitchen in 2017, I knew I wanted to find my way back,” Curiel said. “I’ve been in love with Boulder since I first lived here. It wasn’t just about the scenery and community, but the chance to cook my own food as a young Mexican chef.”

Chef Curiel said the timing and circumstances were fate, too.

“I couldn’t have seized this opportunity without the encouragement of our incredible team at Alma Fonda Fina,” he said.

The restaurant is centered around a wood-fired grill with hickory to honor the way many people in Mexico have cooked for centuries. 

“Every dish touches the wood-fired grill, down to the salsas and guacamole, which feature distinctly charred ingredients that showcase the aromatics of each ingredient,” according to the release.

Chef Curiel said cooking with fire takes him back to Sunday barbeques in Mexico where he’d make carne asada on the grill.

“At Cozobi Fonda Fina, we honor this by showing the vast possibilities of nixtamal, extending far beyond just tortillas,” Curiel said. “Our nixtamal program showcases the true complexity of Mexican food while emphasizing our commitment to authentic ingredients and time-honored traditions.”

The 100% gluten-free menu features entradas, crudos, nixtamal and large plates, and signature dishes include:

• Guacamole a las Brasas (smashed avocados, charred vegetables, salsa negra, queso fresco) — Charred vegetables from the wood-fire grill add complexity to this guacamole that is inspired by Johnny’s family barbeques in Mexico.

• Tamal de Rajas con Crema (hoja santa wrapped, salsa verde, crema agria, queso fresco) — based-on chef Curiel’s abuela’s recipe and a nostalgic hometown food tradition in Tapalpa, Mexico where tamales are served with salsa, crema, and cheese.

• Barbacoa de Borrego (12-hour roasted, salsa cruda, fresh herbs) — traditionally slow roasted lamb that embodies the essence of Curiel family gatherings, and that of thousands of other Mexican families.

• Flautas de Birria (osso bucco birria, salsa verde, pickled onions, frijoles puercos) — authentic Jalisco-style birria flautas, a favorite from Chef Johnny’s childhood.

The beverage program is expansive and includes:

• Avocado Margarita
• Oaxacan Old Fashioned
• Mex 75
• Sweet Corn Margarita with fresh local corn

The bar houses 150-plus additive-free Mexican spirits ranging from tequila and mezcal to corn and agave-based spirits.

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The wine menu will feature predominantly Mexican wineries that tell the story of the country’s rich history of winemaking.

Located in the former Arcana restaurant space, Cozobi Fonda Fina’s 71-seat restaurant pays homage to the Boulder foothills with deep greens and dark wood.

Designer Agatha Strompolis said of the new location: “Cozobi Fonda Fina inadvertently became the masculine counterpoint to Alma Fonda Fina’s soft feminine energy. The rich tones and details draw inspiration from both Mexico and Boulder.”

The restaurant said the six-seat chef’s counter offers an intimate dining experience as well, which has become a staple at both Curiel’s Fonda Finas.

If you go:

• Cozobi Fonda Fina is located at 909 Walnut Street, Boulder, Colorado
• The restaurant is open every day for happy hour from 2-5 p.m. and dinner from 4-11 p.m.
• For more information, follow along on Instagram @cozobifondafina. For reservations please visit Tock.