It might sound like a suspense thriller, but the only mystery at Denver’s The 9th Door is to wonder how they make such impressive tapas.

The decor at this Capitol Hill restaurant is reminiscent of a wine cave: It’s long, narrow and dimly lit. The mural of wine barrels at one end of the room bolsters the theme. Fortunately, it wasn’t too dark to appreciate the creatively plated food.

This is a popular place to dine, so reservations are suggested. We didn’t plan well, but were graciously taken to a booth. The host said the table was needed in two and a half hours. We had plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely meal and left with 30 minutes to spare.

Because tapas are small plates meant to be shared, it’s often recommended to order three to four per person. We ordered eight (including dessert) for four people and were sated.

The menu featured some surprises and a lot of traditional Spanish tapas, so it was no surprise to see pan con tomate ($7), but it was the lesser-known pan ala parilla con salsa verde ($5) that caught our attention. We ordered both, along with an order of datiles ($8), which are bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese.

Everything arrived on a long wooden cutting board. The pan con tomate featured tomato pulp on toasted ciabatta drizzled with olive oil. I usually like the thick Italian bread, but it was too dense to allow the focus to stay on the mashed tomato spread. Thin slices of toasted sourdough were used for pan con salsa verde. The sauce was vibrant in color and flavor thanks to the blend of roasted tomatillos, parsley and olive oil.

Pungent Valdeon blue cheese from Spain filled sweet dates and with the bacon created a triad of salty, sweet and tangy.

Patatas bravas ($10) and tortilla Espanola ($12) provided the other traditional tapas. The potatoes, served in a very hot cast iron pan, were crispy and creamy with a spicy bravas sauce and drizzled with creamy aioli. What set the tortilla (aka omelet) apart from others was the inclusion of garlic vs. onion. Sliced potatoes and well-whipped eggs made for a thick, airy dish. Dollops of romesco and aioli encircled the tortilla.

Pollo con chorizo ($14) and pinchos moruno ($12) were new to us. The latter featured two skewers each with two pieces of pork sausage topped with roasted red pepper, onions and dotted with pepper corns. Each skewer was on a slice of toasted bread with a thin layer of salsa verde. This was a dish we probably should have ordered two of so we could have had our own rather than sharing.

The chicken was among my favorites of the evening. Pieces of broasted chicken served in a pan of stewed garbanzo beans and romesco were tender and juicy. The crispy skin on each piece provided a decadent texture.

We finished with an order of churros ($9) served with hot chocolate dipping sauce. The fried cylinders of dough sprinkled with cinnamon sugar were plenty sweet; the rich chocolate made them even better.

The 9th Door

Spanish tapas

Location: 925 Lincoln St., Denver

Contact: 1-303-832-7027; 9thdoorcapitolhill

Prices: $5 to $46

Hours: 4-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 4-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating.

Favorite dishes: Patatas bravas, pan ala parilla and pollo con choriso.

Other: Gluten-free and limited vegan options available.