Across Colorado, no chef is riding a wave quite like Johnny Curiel.

In 2024, the world-renowned Michelin Guide awarded a coveted star to Alma Fonda Fina, Curiel’s solo debut restaurant that was not yet a year old. Along with the star, Michelin gave its Young Chef Award to Curiel.

Then most recently, in its 2025 edition, Michelin included a star for Mezcaleria Alma, Curiel’s sister Mexican concept next to Alma Fonda Fina in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood.

“Lightning strikes twice for dynamo chef Johnny Curiel,” inspectors wrote.

Previously, he opened Cozobi Fonda Fina, bringing wood-fired, corn-centric creations to Boulder. That restaurant received a Bib Gourmand, making Michelin’s short list of “great food at a great value.” And the first year of Jalisco Highlands-inspired Alteño in Cherry Creek earned a spot on Michelin’s recommended list.

That’s not to mention finalist recognition from the James Beard Foundation. Or The New York Times recently placing Mezcaleria Alma on its annual list of best restaurants in the country. Or the restaurant also appearing on Bon Appétit’s annual best-of list.

“It’s been unbelievable, unreal,” Curiel said.

But don’t call it a fast rise.

Curiel knows his journey to be anything but — beginning in Guadalajara and continuing in America, where his family moved when he was 12. His parents were restaurateurs who bounced around before settling in Summit County. Curiel, too, would bounce around. He’d work alongside top chefs, building skills toward his ultimate mission: to finely, uniquely celebrate the flavors of his native land.

“I had stops in Arizona, I’ve lived in Minnesota, I’ve lived in California, I’ve lived in North Carolina, I’ve lived in Cincinnati, you name it,” he said. “I’m kind of a nomad.”

Now he’s back where his culinary journey started as a teen — in Denver, where acclaim waited. That’s where our conversation started.

What has all the praise meant for you?

It puts me at a stage to be able to share my culture: our food, our heritage. And doing it from Denver, you know. You always hear about Mexican restaurants in L.A., Mexican restaurants in Chicago, Mexican restaurants in New York. But being able to do it from Denver, it’s amazing.

What have been some of the hardest times along the way?

My parents went back to Mexico when I was 16. Being a 16-year-old in Summit County, or being an 18-year-old in Denver, or being 21 years old in another state … those were some of the hardest moments. But I’m grateful for those opportunities that presented themselves for me to be independent, to be by myself, to figure out how to tackle a situation on my own.

Does all the recognition make it easier or harder?

Harder, 100%. It puts you on a platform. … People that travel for Michelin have seen every single scenario — a one star, a Bib Gourmand, a recommendation, two stars — so it’s easy to be compared. And even when you’ve never been to a Michelin restaurant, it’s easy to criticize. So with Michelin, a big responsibility comes with it. It’s a lot more stressful, but it also becomes more purposeful.

For people keeping up with Michelin, they’re seeing your four restaurants awarded or recommended. If someone could only go to one, what do you say?

Without Alma, there’s no Cozobi, Mezcaleria or Alteño. Alma will always be the baby that was able to make everything else possible, and it’s the reason we went from 12 employees to having 150. So I always say, “Try Alma.”

And what’s your favorite dish there?

Frijoles Percos (chorizo, fresh salsa, queso fresco, sourdough flour tortillas).

What do you like to eat on your own eating time?

Do you want the real answer? I love McDonald’s. I love a double cheeseburger with extra everything.

Any other restaurants around Denver you’re digging?

The one I frequent the most: Kawa Ni, Japanese Izakaya. There’s Xiquita in uptown from (chef Erasmo Casiano); he’s doing an amazing job with Mexican cuisine. There’s Riot BBQ by Manny Barella.

Of everything, what are you most proud of?

My wife and I have a 4 1/2-year-old. … We’ve prioritized home as much as we’ve prioritized business. Most people, yeah, at one point you have to choose: Do you want to be a chef and restaurateur, or do you want to be a dad? Doing both has been the highlight of my career.