Find inventive breakfast fare at Denver’s Fox and the Hen restaurant | Dining review
The lesson learned at Fox and the Hen in Denver’s Highlands neighborhood was that no matter how hard it was deciding what to order, there was never anything to worry about.
Unlike the similarly named fable, trust this popular breakfast place to dish up tasty, imaginative food. Consequently, it’s not unusual for crowds to form at the two-story brick building fronted by a large white tent nearly hiding the restaurant’s name. During warmer months, tables with umbrellas fill the outdoor space.
Welcome to Fox and the Hen (The Gazette:Cody Van Hooser)
Appetizers are not typically associated with the morning meal, but Fox and the Hen has a handful called “for the homies.” We started with sausage rolls ($6). Two come with each order, featuring Polidori sausage wrapped in house-made dough that’s been baked so it’s soft and chewy. The pork is well seasoned and reflects why Polidori is the oldest sausage manufacturer in Colorado. This is served with a subtle spicy maple sauce for dipping. It would be easy to order more than two, but don’t. The breakfast servings are generous.
Besides appetizers, other menu sections include fancy toast, signatures, kids stuff and side pieces.
Of course, there’s avocado toast ($16), which I almost succumbed to, but instead ventured in a different direction: leeks, mushrooms and Parmesan toast ($16). A thick slice of grilled sourdough bread is topped with creamed leeks, preserved mixed mushrooms, kale and toasted cheese that adds crunch. The accompanying steak knife initially seemed out of place, but the bread was grilled long enough so it wouldn’t get soggy. This meant it was a bit tough to cut, but not a chore to eat.
Stuffed French toast with Banana cream, dulce de leche, and candied nuts. (The Gazette: Cody Van Hooser)
Stuffed French toast ($17) also caught our attention and could have been a dessert. Locally sourced minibrioches were stuffed with banana cream (think pie filling). Coin-size banana slices, candied nuts, a dusting of powdered sugar and thick drizzles of dulce de leche made for a very sweet, very filling entrée. It was more like eating a mega-doughnut than typical French toast. This is no complaint.
The Bear omelet ($19) is packed with braised Italian beef and cheddar. The burritolike shape is topped with au jus hollandaise sauce and giardiniera. It’s not only an homage to the award-winning television show of the same name, but also Chicago beef sandwiches.
The Bear Omlette with a side of fries (The Gazette: Cody Van Hooser)
The meat was tender and the inclusion of the au jus from the beef in the hollandaise was a successful variation of a traditional egg-based sauce. The colorful veggie mix also added more texture.
Fries are listed as an omelet side, but we opted for hash browns. They arrived as an oblong, thin-shaped brick. The taste and texture was more like tater tots — only in one piece.
There are several more traditional items, although most have clever names that attempt to hide their identity. The Ye Olde Standard ($18) was the most conventional, featuring two eggs, sourdough toast and confit potatoes.
Those spuds were phenomenal: crispy, buttery and very rich. They were a sharp contrast to the hash browns that came with the omelet.
This popular place can be loud. Service was excellent. Reservations are not accepted, but it’s possible to call ahead to get your name on the waitlist.
Fox and the Hen
Creative breakfast fare for dining in or carryout.
Location: 2257 W. 32nd St., Denver
Contact: 1-303-862-6795; foxandthehen.com
Prices: $5 to $19
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining.
Favorite dishes: Stuffed French toast and leeks, mushrooms and Parmesan toast.
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.







