Small menu, big flavors at Colorado Springs wine bar serving cheese, small plates | Dining review

Practically hidden among the multiple pages of wine offerings is Vine and Wheel’s food menu with only 12 items.

Despite the limited number, choosing what to eat is almost as difficult as selecting what to drink. It’s a nice problem to have and easily solvable by simply trying several small plates (and wine pours). Also, the staff know their vittles and their vintages.

Part of the Altitude Hospitality Group, Vine and Wheel is in the same complex as Garden of the Gods Gourmet on South Tejon Street. It is best described as a wine bar with an impressive bill of fare.

Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Seared Scallops, Caprese Bruschetta and Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Seared Scallops, Caprese Bruschetta and Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)

It was suggested that we start with one or two dishes and add more as our appetites dictated. The plates are meant for sharing. We were told food comes out of the kitchen quickly so there wouldn’t be any lulls between courses. Unfortunately, the longest delay was waiting for our first order of caprese bruschetta ($15) and braised short rib risotto ($17). Although we weren’t prepared for it, I admit the wait proved worth it.

Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)

Slices of rustic, crusty toast are piled high with thick pieces of creamy house-made mozzarella, heirloom cherry tomatoes, bits of crispy prosciutto and micro-basil. A tangy and sweet balsamic glaze is drizzled over everything. The bread is cut into quarters, which makes for easy handling, but be prepared for a few tomato slices to slip off.

Our server recommended the risotto and it’s easy to see why. The velvety rice is capped with tender, shredded short rib that’s clearly been slowly braised. Freshly grated grana (cheese) and micro-basil complete the presentation. This is elevated comfort food. The meat balanced the richness of the wine-infused Arborio rice.

Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)

When told the duck fat fries ($9) were one of the most popular items, we thought we should see why. Golden, thin-cut, skin-on potatoes dusted with grana served in a small cast-iron pan are crispy on the outside while soft and creamy inside. The duck fat is rich, making the fries well above average.

Seared scallops at Vine and Wheel. (Jeff Kearney., special to the gazette)
Seared scallops at Vine and Wheel. (Jeff Kearney., special to the gazette)

Pan-seared scallops at $22 is the most expensive plate on the menu. Four buttery scallops with seared tops rest in a celery root puree. Frankly, well-cooked scallops need little else to recommend them. The puree was earthy and added color.

The menu noted that quince chutney accompanied the scallops. However, the light green fruit chunks tasted a lot like melon.

Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Charcuterie Board” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Charcuterie Board” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)

Vine and Wheel serves meat and cheese boards (thus the reference in the name). They come in a variety of sizes and combinations. Prices range from $19 to $52. We chose a different kind of board: the petit four ($14) for dessert.

The title says it all. Four small — think two to four bites each — pastries served on a wooden board. Included are opera cake, almond jam cake, lemon-lime raspberry bar and monstrosity cheesecake.

The latter is a sweet, milky cheese layered square with a crushed chocolate cookie base with a large dollop of whipped cream.

Fashionable decor in gray tones with a range of seating options from high tops to lounges contribute to an upscale yet comfortable vibe.

Vine & Wheel

Wine bar serving small plates.

Location: 616 S. Tejon St.

Contact: 1-719-2662140; vineandwheel.com

Prices: $9 to $22 (cheese and meat boards $19 to $52)

Hours: 3 to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 3 to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 1 to 10 p.m. Sunday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating.

Favorite dishes: Caprese bruschetta and braised short rib risotto.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.

Duck fat fries at Vine and Wheel. (Jeff Kearney, special to the gazette)
Duck fat fries at Vine and Wheel. (Jeff Kearney, special to the gazette)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta, Seared Scallops and Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Caprese Bruschetta, Seared Scallops and Duck Fat Fries” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Seared Scallops” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)
Vine and Wheel Restaurant (Located at: 616 S. Tejon) “Seared Scallops” Wednesday May 24, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney. (Jeff Kearney)

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