Italy’s Veneto region is home to cultural touchstones such as Venice, Padua and Verona. And to the wine-growing regions of Soave and Valpolicella.

After World War II, the white wine Soave and the red wine Valpolicella became incredibly popular in the U.S., but eventually quality suffered as volumes increased. In recent years, quality-minded producers — such as Azienda Agricola Inama and Tenuta Sant’Antonio — have led a reemergence of these wines.

Soave is made primarily from the indigenous garganega grape, typically crisp with suggestions of citrus, honeydew and a touch of appealing bitterness. Inama is particularly notable for producing impressive Soave. mainly from vineyards around the Monte Foscarino volcano.

Its entry-level Vin Soave (2020, $16) is a fantastic value. But it is Inama’s “cru” Soaves where you can really taste the potential garganega can achieve. Inama has elevated the quality and precision of the grape with the production of single-vineyard expressions. These 100% garganega wines are richer and more complex but still attractively priced.

The 2019 Carbonare ($28) from a 50-year-old hillside vineyard with eastern exposure and diverse basalt soils, showcases plump fresh pear, banana and apricot. The 2019 Foscarino ($28) a special selection from old vines on the volcano, offers brisk apple and pear.

Valpolicella is made mostly from the native corvina grape, notably fresh and elegant, with bold cherry fruit. Sant’Antonio produces a diverse set of estate-grown wines – from young, light Valpolicella to full-bodied Amarone – from the Illasi Valley and Monti Garbi.

The entry-level Valpolicella, 2019 Nanfrè ($15) is typically vibrant and light, with tart red cherry and hints of cinnamon. The 2018 Monti Garbi Ripasso ($22) achieves richer, more intense red fruit flavors and surprising complexity by macerating Valpolicella with grape materials remaining after Amarone fermentation.

At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. It is a special type of Valpolicella made using the ancient “appassimento” process of drying the grapes to concentrate the juice. The 2016 Selezione Antonio Castegnedi ($47), a special selection tribute to the Castagnedi family’s father, is an impressive display of power and deep dark fruits, with hints of baking spice, mocha, smoke and tobacco.

But the Castagnedis don’t stop there. They have elevated the appassimento process to produce two wines of remarkable complexity and depth that will evolve for several years. The single vineyard 2015 Campo dei Gigli ($73) bursts with concentrated dark fruits, a dense palate and persistent mocha, anise and spice.

At the epitome is 2008 “Lilium Est” Riserva ($185), a limited production special reserve extensively aged; it is still amazingly fresh, even fruity but with concentrated, dried black fruits, spice, licorice, minerals, woodsy notes, and large scaled richness.