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Wine Guy: Broaden your experience with these ‘alternative’ white wines

As in other areas of life, it’s easy to get in a rut drinking only a few of types of wine. But as in life, so in wine: experiencing diversity is enriching.

My recent tasting of “alternative” white wines (no chardonnay or sauvignon blanc) was one of the most enjoyable of recent months. You should find the wines in this column bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time.

Riesling: The iconic wine of Germany and Alsace, riesling delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity, and increasingly is delightfully dry. The best present juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit, peach or apricot occasionally with steely, mineral components.

• 2021 J. Lohr Arroyo Seco “Bay Mist” ($13), good everyday sipping, touch sweet.

• 2020 Argyle “Nuthouse” ($30), vibrant fruit; creamy texture from barrel fermentation and aging.

• 2019 Penner-Ash Hyland Vineyard “Old Vine” ($40) ,dramatic fruit, floral qualities, light spice, off dry.

Pinot gris: This grape —noted for full bodied, sumptuous stone fruit, melon, and citrus — is a clone of pinot noir believed to have originated in Burgundy, yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Austria and Italy. It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California.

• 2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($32), refreshing, succulent, lush.

• 2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard ($32), precise, full-bodied, balanced.

Pinot blanc: Another mutation of pinot noir, it is associated with Alsace, Austria, Germany and Italy. Expect peach, pear, lime, melon and apple with chardonnay-like weight.

• 2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada ($35), bright, juicy, intensely flavored.

• 2021 Lucy “Pico Blanco” ($24), delightful, succulent combination of pinot gris and pinot blanc.

Viognier: Once upon a time quite rare but now is the most-planted white Rhône variety in the U.S. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. Like the 2020 Cristom Louise Vineyard ($30): organic, biodynamic; structured, honeysuckle, anise.

Chenin blanc: Originated in the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious wines (dry or sweet). It also is successful in South Africa. While often produced in a sweet style in California, Dry Creek Vineyard has pioneered a particularly successful dry style. The 2021 ($16) shows brisk, juicy apple and honey.

Grüner veltliner: Austria’s signature grape produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent citrus and tropical fruit. There are now excellent samples in California. Like the 2015 Fiddlehead Cellars Bebble Reserve ($42): weighty, balanced, elegant, light spice.

Albariño: Identified with Spain and Portugal, it makes invigorating, floral, citrusy wines. Some interesting, examples are appearing in California. The 2021 Vara ($30) — bracing lime, spicy herbal tones — uses California grapes but is made in Albuquerque, N.M!

Rich Mauro.
Rich Mauro.


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