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Wine Guy: Denver sommelier offers suggestions pairing lighter Italian reds with summer foods

WineFest

Italian wine, arguably more than any other, is made to be drunk with food. Generally, with slightly higher acidity, less noticeable oak, and more of a sense of the earth where the grapes originated, Italian wines just taste better with food. Here I focus on light-bodied reds (eight native grapes) for warm weather drinking. They are fruit-forward, have gentler tannins, and taste better with more of a chill.

To be more specific as to what foods to eat with these wines, I discussed pairing suggestions with sommelier Scott Thomas, “founder and lead educator” at Grappolo Wine School and wine director at Denver’s Michelin recommended Restaurant Olivia. His creative suggestions for pairing with regional foods follow my tasting notes in italics.

Valpolicella (Veneto). Blended primarily from corvina, rondinella and molinara grapes, notable for bright cherry flavors, gentle tannins, crisp, vibrant finish.

• 2021 Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Nanfrè” ($15), family-owned winery, estate-grown, organically farmed; super fresh, bright fruit; typical mixed antipasti: Prosciutto di Parma, salami, olives, assorted cheeses such as Asiago,

• 2017 I Latium Morini “Campo Prognai” Superiore ($21), fuller and richer with deep fruit and hints of spice; risotto or polenta dishes with a meat ragu

• 2021 Pasqua “PassioneSentimento” ($18) with merlot, intense fruit, some spice, velvety texture, muscular tannins; anything off the grill.

Refosco (Venezia Giulia) 2015 Marco Felluga “Ronco Dei Moreri” ($21), hilltop vineyard, fresh, fruity, elegant; grilled or roasted seasonal vegetables, especially Radicchio di Treviso

Lagrein (Alto Adige) 2021 Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano) “Perl” ($20). cooperative of over 200 growers; spice, mineral, rounded tannins; braised meats or any mushroom-oriented dish; venison is common in the region.

Schiava (Alto Adige) 2022 Alois Lageder ($18), biodynamic estate vineyards, sustainable; organic growers; fresh, fruity, moderate alcohol; while not regional, don’t be afraid to try with fish or seafood; the tannins are so soft that it makes for a refreshing pairing,

Sangiovese (Tuscany) 2021 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico ($28), lively fruit, herbal note, fresh texture; classic “pizza wine” or pastas with red sauce – Pappardelle and Pici are the regional pastas.

Montepulciano (Marche) 2020 Garofoli “Piancarda” Rosso Cònero ($17), single vineyard, brambly, savory, spicy; lamb and montepulciano are a match made in heaven, one of the classic food pairings of the world.

Primitivo (Puglia) 2022 Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo “Bio” ($16), organically grown, heady fruit, mint, cocoa, cola, spices, earth, powdery tannins, moderate alcohol; hard sheep’s milk cheese or, even better, American barbeque with a sweet tangy sauce.

Nerello Mascalese (Sicily) 2020 Tenuta Tascante “Ghiaia Nera” ($22), grown on the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna; super fresh, pure fruit, star anise, mineral; seasonal dishes that include tomatoes, eggplant, and basil or capers (like Caponata), and even tuna steaks,


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