Whether food, as an adjective, precedes court, emporium or hall, it’s all the same concept: several options for cuisines in a single, usually large, space with a common dining area. It’s an apt description of Denver’s Junction Food & Drink.

With nearly a dozen options for chow and libations, how to choose? Short of throwing a plastic fork and seeing which way the tines faced, I chose Cleaver & Co. because of the name.

It’s all about what goes inside a sliced brioche bun: beef, chicken or falafel along with an impressive list of possible accoutrements. The six hamburger varieties range from a basic house burger ($9.59) to the Got Goat ($13.49), made with lamb, dill-goat cheese and usual accoutrements of lettuce, tomato and onion. This did not intrigue me.

The West Coast ($11.29) caught my eye, though, with avocado mash, Monterey Jack cheese, pomegranate butter and cilantro crema. However, it was vetoed in favor of the Bacon Be Back ($10.59) due to curiosity about bacon-habanero jam. Yes, it has a kick, but it’s also salty, creating an atypical blend of flavors. Fortunately, it didn’t overwhelm the thick, juicy grilled patty or the gooey melted American cheese.

The loaded tots ($6.99) also feature the jam, hot sauce, cilantro crema and pickles. Tater tots are having a day; they’ve lately appeared on several menus in different venues. The crunchy, toasty exterior gives way to a creamy center with each bite. The abundant toppings ensured each tot was well dressed, although the crema was difficult to distinguish. The combination of spicy jam and hot sauce created an immediate need for something to quell the heat. We discovered the tart pickles were the equalizers.

Five chicken choices are available. The crispy sandwich ($11.99) is Nashville hot featuring fried breast strips, pickles and coleslaw. It lives up to its crispy name and, fortunately, three levels of spiciness are available, including eliminating it altogether. As a fan of fried chicken and some semblance of piquancy, I opted for the mild, which proved to be just right.

Crunchy coleslaw and the mild sauce is a satisfying blend of textures and flavors. The chicken wears a dark orange coating and there’s enough sauce to make things a little messy; this is not a complaint.

Described on the menu as “Suitable for rabbits and vegetarians,” is the falafel burger ($9.99). This, too, featured the dill-goat spread. However, it was barely detectable thanks to the peppery harissa aioli.

All of the sandwiches require two hands to manage and efforts at taking dainty, dignified bites are quickly rendered foolish.

Complementing the offerings are the milkshakes. Thick, creamy and made with fresh fruit, my strawberry shake ($6.99) also helped temper the spice levels of the bacon-habanero jam in the burger and tots. It was also like simultaneously enjoying dessert with my entree.

Food stalls line the perimeter of the hall with tables in the center and outside for al fresco dining. Counter seating is also available. Fare from other vendors includes pizza, ramen, barbecue, tacos and more. Noise levels are loud, but the vibe is fun and family-friendly.

Cleaver & Co.

Grilled burger and chicken sandwich.

Location: Junction Food & Drink, 2000 S. Colorado Ave., Denver

Contact: 1-720-400-7772; junctionfoodanddrink.com

Prices: $7.29 to $13.49

Hours (food hall): 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Wi-Fi. Outside dining.

Favorite dishes: Crispy chicken sandwich and strawberry shake.

Other: Limited gluten-free and vegan options available.